|
Making
Slides of
Your
Artwork
|
Instructions
for making Art (35 mm) Portfolio
Slides
and
Digital
Images
for Web Pages
Materials/Equipment
35 mm Single Reflex Camera (manual
control*)
with built in meter
Tripod
Cable release
Film:
Professional Ektachrome
(tungsten) ISO 64 or 160 film
Optional film:
Kodachome ISO 64
Echtachrome ISO 64
(can
process quickly by local photo labs, but is not as good as Kodachrome)
If daylight film is used with tungsten
light, color
correction would be needed on the camera lens using a blue filter #80B.
With daylight film, some feel that the color is best in direct sun,
others recommend open shade for less glare. In open shade it is
possible
to get a blue bias from the sky. A white reflector (not a mirror) might
be the best indirect diffuse daylight source option if using sunlight.
Do not try to use fluorescent light, as it is too hard to get
correct
color balance.
Halogen lights nearly the same as sunlight
2 -
Tungsten
(3200 K, Type "B")
photo
flood bulbs - OR -
simple flood lamps with clips
Gray card
* Manual control = can
control
shutter speed and aperture independently
Procedure
Using Film
Setting up Artwork
Place flat art work on flat neutral
color wall
(clean black mat board can be used. Securing devices such as tacks,
nails,
tape etc. should be kept out of sight. Keep flat as possible.
Option - Smaller flat work can be
placed
on floor.
Camera and Film
-
Place film into camera in low light.
-
Secure camera to tripod (or copy stand
for small
work). Have adequate space around tripod base so it can be easily moved
in any of the four directions.
-
Attach cable release to camera.
-
Never use flash because of glare
problems.
Lights
CAUTION: Hot photoflood filaments are
easily
broken. They burn out if moved when hot. Allow to cool a few minutes
before
removing from lamps or moving. They are also fire hazards if placed
near
materials that burn.
-
Place photo floods to left and right
of artwork
at a low angle so that light is evenly distributed over the whole work.
Keep lamps at a low angle to prevent glare (reflection) from art
surface,
but far enough away so as not to create a "bright spot" on the work.
-
3-d work should be placed on an
infinity background
which curves up from the table or floor (no wall floor seam) with "key
light" coming from top at 45 degree angle and fill light from other
side.
To soften the light, the light can be reflected from a white surface or
diffusing material can be used in the path of the light to create a
"soft
box" effect.
-
Washable dulling spray is sometimes
used on high
gloss surfaces to temporarily make them mat for the photo.
Sometimes shade is placed so that less
light
hits the background. This makes 3-d work appear to project forward in
the
space.
Metering and Making the
Exposures
-
Hold the gray card just in front of
artwork and
holding camera lens close to card, read meter and adjust shutter as
indicated.
-
For flat work set aperture wide open,
since depth
of field is not a large factor. You can adjust shutter speed
accordingly
if you focus carefully.
-
For 3-d work, use a small enough
aperture to include
the whole depth of field needed to include everything at sharp focus.
F/16
or F22 is suggested. Use enough light so that exposure times are not
more
than 2 seconds at F/16.
-
Take one photo at the metered setting,
then
"Bracket"
i.e., shoot another at one shutter speed
slower
and another one at one shutter speed
faster
than meter indicates while keeping the aperture constant.
This insures one exact exposure.
-
It is a best to take enough slides
of each work
to meet the number of slides needed. Always take more than you think
you
will need! Copy slides are almost always inferior and colors will not
be
true.
Processing
-
Rewind film, store in film container
and keep refrigerated
until processed.
-
Echtachrome films can be processed
fast (some as
quickly as a few hours) by good local photo processing businesses.
Kodachrome must be sent and processed
at a
regional Kodak processing center
This will take at least 10 -14
days.
Either take to local store or mail in
mailer
direct to a Kodak processing center (mailers can be purchased through
photo
catalogue mail order houses).
Making
Digital Images
of Your Artwork
Materials/Equipment
Three ways to get
digital photo
files
-
Use a digital camera.
Check out a
camera from ITS.
Use tripod and cable
release.
If camera does not accept a cable release, use the 10 second delay so
the
camera is steady.
-
Scan slides using a
film/slide scanner.
Both slide and flat bed scanners are in the Mac Lab.
-
Scanning prints with a
flat bed scanner
is possible, but does not give quite the same quality. You can get
better
quality if you have use the negatives in the film scanner.
Digital
Camera Method
-
Use the camera's best resolution mode,
saving images
in .jpg mode
-
Set up work and lighting the same as
above for film
cameras
-
Turn off the automatic flash
-
Preview images while everything is set
up so adjustments
and retakes can be made until everything looks right
-
Digital camera images are generally
saved in the
camera at a resolution of 72 dpi, but the images are much larger than
feasible
as web page illustrations. See #2 in Enhancing and Savinge below.
Film/Slide
Scanner Method
-
Set the resolution high enough to
enlarge the image
and still have high enough resolution after enlarging.
-
Web page images are posted at a
resolution of 72
dpi (dots per inch or pixels per inch). Higher resolutions should
not be posted because monitors do not display the finer
resolution
and finer resolution makes tehe images very slow to download for
browsers
using a modem.
-
Web page images should fit within
monitors so browers
are not forced to scroll too much.
-
An image 8 inches wide might be a
practical limit.
This about 7 times as wide as a horizontal slide.
-
If a web page needs an image that is 7
times as
large as a piece of 35 mm film, the scanning resolution of the slide or
film needs to be about 7 times 72. This is about 500 dpi
(or
ppi) when scanning.
-
If you want to produce a CD portfolio,
a resolution
3 or 4 times as high would be fine. This would allow for better quality
printouts as well.
-
More complete instructions for using
the
scanners
at Goshen College are at this link
.
Saving
Digital Photo Files
-
While saving images that are "in
process" do not
compress the image, but keep it at 10 (in .jpg format) or save it in
the
uncompressed .psd Photoshop format.
-
In Photoshop use Image, and
Image Size to
stipulate both the size and the resolution of the image file.
-
Once you have finished all the
cropping, color adjustments,
sharpening, contrast and brightness adjustments, sizing, and so on, use
Save As to make a .jpg file (for web pages). Gif format can be
used,
but it is more appropriate for hard edge flat color and graphics. Jpg
is
better for continuous tone photos.
-
While using
Save As
in
.jpg
format,
you select the degree of compression with 0 being maximum compression
(fastest
loading web page image) and 10 being maximum quality (slower loading
web
image).
-
Since small files load much faster on
a remote web
browser's computer, compress the imagers enough so that no single
images
are larger than about 50k in size. Look at file sizes by viewing as a
list
on your disk folder.
Enhancing
Digital Photo Files
The
digital cameras
often take a less than perfect image. The following is list of
Photoshop
commands to try before you save it for a web page.
-
Image, Adjust,
Brightness/Contrast
-
Image, Adjust,
Hue/Saturation
-
Image, Adjust,
Variations
-
Filters,
Sharpen, Unsharp
Mask, set threshold to 3 and radius 1.0 and slide the sharpen slider
until
it looks best.
-
See
additional
information at this link.
Designing
your Web Pages
-
Be careful about placing more than one
image on
a web page. It could take too long for the page to load and some
browsers
with hit the stop button rather than wait.
-
Many web sites are designed
using a page of
very small thumbnail images used as links to larger versions.
This
gives the viewer a choice.
Click
to see an example.
-
For more information click this link
to the Goshen
College
Web
Publishing
Manual
|