Over the weekend, the SST Cambodia group traveled to Ba Phnom in Prey Veng Province, about 78 kilometers (but 4 hours) from Phnom Penh. In the first century, Ba Phnom, then known as Vayathapura (the hunting city) was the capital city of Nokor Phnom, the earlier name for what is now Cambodia.
Uong Sam Ang, a friend of Mennonite Central Committee workers in nearby Prey Veng town, was our guide of the Ba Phnom area, where he was born and has lived most of his life. Among the sites we visited were the ruins of French Provincial sites; a nearly two-century old well that once provided water for all of the villagers; the local Killing Fields from the Khmer Rouge years, where soldiers didn’t even bother to bury the dead; the ruins of the 5th/6th century Preah Vihear Chann Temple; and numerous wats (Buddhist pagodas/temples).
We also visited the sites of major mining projects, where mining is done with machinery by major corporations — mining rocks for building roads, and destroying the hillsides in the process — and also done by hand by local villagers.
The most spectacular wats, pavillions, and stairways were built on Nokor Phnom, where the group spent a couple of hours climbing hundreds of steps to the top and hearing Sam Ang describe the development of the mountain’s sites. From there we had a beautiful view of the Ba Phnom area, with rice fields and canals and rows or remaining forests stretching as far as the eye could see.
In addition, we walked to Neakta Mesor (Guardian Spirit Mesor), an animist temple maintained by a local family. There Sam Ang told us a lengthy tale about the heroes of the temple.
As part of our final wat visit in Ba Phnom — to Preah Vihear Thom Pagoda — we were treated to a traditional dance show by local orphaned children, most of whom come from families with HIV/AIDs. If plans carry, Jacob M and Lauren will do their service at the wat, teaching English and music to community children. Jacob M will have the remarkable experience of living with the Buddhist monks for the six-week service term, and Lauren likely will live with our guide Sam Ang’s family.
After leaving Ba Phnom, the group spent the night in Prey Veng town, the provincial capital. After a relaxing morning, we headed back to Phnom Penh, arriving in mid-afternoon Sunday.
Guide Sam Ang with the group on our visit to Nokor Phnom.Like most villages, Phnom Kamplok had its own Killing Fields during the Khmer Rouge period. At this one, the Khmer Rouge regime didn’t even bother to bury the dead.Viewing a nearly 200-year-old well.Local children checking out the new visitors to Ba Phnom.Among the sites we visited was a mining project that is destroying the local hills/mountains.Boys swinging from a rope over a pond near the mining site.Audrey with Sam Ang at the rock-mining site.Examining a tiny fragment of a bone from Buddha, brought to the wat from Sri Lanka.Walking up to our first wat in the Ba Phnom region.An up-close look at the crystal container for Buddha’s bone fragment.Inside the Preah Vihear Chann temple ruins.The ruins of pre-Angkor Preah Vihear Chann temple.Henry and Renae listen as Sam Ang tells a tale.The animist shrine at Neakta Mesor.Keeper of the animist shrine.Sarah T, Maryn, and Jacob M with the keeper of the animist shrine.Lauren and Carina learning about the animist shrine.Sam Ang at one of Nokor Phnom’s wats.Corey, Jacob M and Seth take a break during the long walk up Nokor Phnom.Group photo on the stairway at Ba Phnom.Kate, Audrey, and Joel at Nokor Phnom.Monks near the top of Nokor Phnom.The view from another hillside wat toward Nokor Phnom.Sarah T and Audrey look at the spectacular view from Nokor Phnom.Lauren and others come down a steep stairway at Nokor PhnomSarah T, Lauren, Henry and others take a break on the long Nokor Phnom walk.Another group photo with Sam Ang. It was a big day for group photos.At a pavilion midway up Nokor Phnom.Joel and Jacob listen to Sam Ang.Another group shot from the Ba Phnom field trip. Sen Marya, our local assistant, and her husband Omoeut also joined us for the trip.Sam Ang with the monk who heads the monastery where Jacob M will live on service and where Jacob and Lauren will teach English and music.At Preah Vihear Thom Pagoda, we were treated to a traditional dance show by local children.The dance show musicians.Dancers performing for our group.The boy and girl dancers at the wat.Wat dancers.Wat dancers.Wat dancers.Henry, with his new haircut, grinds rice with a traditional device while others look on.Traditionally, after rice was ground as Henry’s was doing it, it is further pounded by this device. Now most of this process is mechanized, even in the provinces.Maryn, Nate, and Brett at breakfast in Prey Veng the morning after the Nokor Phnom trip.An older man walks up the stairs in Prey Veng.Boats preparing to head out from Prey Veng with their loads on Sunday morning.Beautiful expanse of rice and waterways at the edge of Prey Veng town, where we stayed Saturday night.
