After Cusco, we made our way through the Valle Sagrada, or Sacred Valley of the Incas, so called because it contained stunning lands and properties that belonged to the emperor himself. We started the day in the ancient Inca capital of Cusco, visiting the central plaza – one of the most beautiful in South America – and a market.
Then our bus took us on to some of those famous Inca sites. We visited Chinchero, where the great Inca sat on a throne of stone to observe religious festivities in a wide, artificially-flattened parade ground below. A colonial-era church now sits on the foundation of what was once an Inca temple. Chinchero is also a community of weavers, so we visited one of the many textile workshops there. The artisans showed us how they dye and spin llama and alpaca wool and weave the wonderful creations that were for sale.
After a little shopping, we went on to Moray, a sort of Incan agricultural laboratory. Circular terraces provided microclimates at different levels, where the Incas apparently determined optimum conditions for various crops. Our guide, Salvador, brought along a soccer game for a little fun in the shadow of those beautiful terraces.
By evening we arrived in Ollantaytambo, an important rest stop and administrative and religious center for the Incas. It is a very old town, consistently inhabited since Inca times. You can still walk the cobblestone streets and see houses and walls built on the great stone foundations of the Incas. We celebrated Leah’s birthday that evening.
The next morning, we awoke to a steady rain. It was nice to hear the music of rain on the roof again – it never rains in Lima – but not everyone felt up to the hikes planned for the day. Some of us stayed dry indoors while the more intrepid souls set out with guide Salvador to climb a steep trail up to some ancient Incan store houses. They were rewarded with a gorgeous view of the town and valley. Later, an even smaller group walked across the small town to the opposite hillside, to visit a truly amazing structure. The Incas built a great stone citadel into the hillside, using giant boulders from across the valley. The site has given archeologists many clues about how they did it, since work was abandoned there before it was finished.
That afternoon, we boarded a train which followed the Vilcanota River to the small tourist-trap town of Aguas Calientes, the jumping off point to Machu Picchu.