Walking Where the Incas Walked (and Maybe Went Rock Sliding)
March 8, 2015
By Karen and Duane Sherer Stoltzfus
Peru SST Co-Directors, 2014-2015
Lima may be a metropolis of 10 million people, one third of Peru’s total population, but to visit Cusco is to be reminded why the Incas regarded this Andean capital as “the navel of the world.”
Courtney and Ammon pose in front of the 12-angled stone, located in the center of Cusco.
Our guide, Amadeo Valer Farfán, led us on a walk through the city (of about 500,000), where we saw some of their finest stonework, including the famous stone cut with 12 angles, on a wall just up the hill from the Plaza de Armas; and we admired the patchwork of red tile roofs, encircled by hills in every direction.
We had a chance to spend three days in Cusco, beginning with free time to adjust to the altitude, to shop for crafts and, for those with extra energy, to hike. We stayed at a favorite SST hotel, Sol de Oro, which is along a dusty street outside of town, hidden from the tourists that crowd the central district.
Although Machu Picchu looms larger in most imaginations, Cusco actually claims a higher elevation. Cusco sits at around 3,400 meters, or 11,200 feet, compared with about 2,430 meters, or 8,000 feet, for Machu Picchu. In either case, it’s a challenging transition for the body after spending four weeks along the coast in Lima.
On the first evening, we welcomed Amadeo, an archaeologist, author and guide, to the auditorium at Sol de Oro. He provided a thoughtful overview of Incan history, including an appreciation for Incan advances in architecture, accounting, transportation and astronomy.
Micah takes a turn on the sliding rocks.
Amadeo is accomplished both as a researcher and a guide. In February, he was one of four candidates running for the presidency of AGOTUR, a regional tour guide association. When he speaks to the summer group in late May, he expects to have in hand a newly published 240-page history of Peru.
The next day, on a hillside shoulder of Cusco, we visited Saqsayhuaman, once home to the Inca’s temple of the sun and, later, the site of a fierce battle between the Spanish conquistadores and Manco Inca’s army. The stonework, with precise fittings, is among the finest (and largest — one stone placed in a wall weighs more than 300 tons). During our walk at the site, many of the students tried out a set of natural rock slides and passed through a dark cave.
That afternoon we enjoyed a presentation on traditional Andean music by Americo (Amaru) Mejia Suñiga and another member of the band Hijos del Sol; these talented Cusco musicians are adept at playing many instruments, including the quena, the zampoña, and other wind instruments.
Elizabeth tries out a pan flute with one of musicians who performed for us during a workshop in Cusco.
We were fortunate to spend the next two nights, a Saturday and a Sunday, in the homes of Mennonites from Lucre and Huacarpay. The towns are located nearly an hour by bus from downtown Cusco off of a two-lane highway that passes through towns famous for pan chuta, or a sweet bread that tastes like anis (Oropesa), cuy, or guinea pig (Tipón) and chicharrón, or fried pork (Saylla); each town claims a specialty, with dozens of competing shops along the road. We stopped in Oropesa to pick up bread to share with our host families.
Lea with two of her young hosts in Lucre.
Note: Before we made our way to the famous site of Saqsayhuaman, our bus took us to an even higher elevation to visit Tambomachay (12,600 ft. above sea level), an archaeological site associated with the Incas. It consists of a series of aqueducts, canals, and waterfalls that run through terraced rocks. The function of the site isn’t known for certain: it may have served as a military outpost guarding the approaches to Cusco, as a spa resort for the Incan political elite, or both.
As we headed down toward Saqsayhuaman and Cusco, we visited two other sites of Incan ruins: Puka Pukara (or “red fortress”) and Q’enqo (meaning zig-zag), a holy place where sacrifice or mummification appear to have taken place.
Hotel Sol de Oro, where we stayed our first night in Cusco.Maria stands under a fountain in the center of Cusco.Maria takes a photo in Cusco’s famous Plaza de Armas.The fountain in the center of the main plaza was recently topped by a controversial Inca statue.Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus (Church of the Society of Jesus) sits prominently along the Plaza de Armas.Cusco’s main cathedral, Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin, was completed in 1654.A view of the Plaza de Armas on a rainy day.A chapel attached to Cusco’s main cathedral.Walking toward the 12-angled stone with our guide in Cusco.Looking up at a small balcony along a narrow Cusco street.Walking the narrow streets of central Cusco.Courtney and Ammon pose by the 12-angled stone in Cusco city.Many artisans have small shops along the streets of central Cusco.Students take a closer look at a stone wall in Cusco.One of many ornate street signs in central Cusco.Walking the streets of central Cusco.Walking away from the main plaza in Cusco.Another view of Cusco’s Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus.Possible burial site in the Plaza de Armas.Plaza de Regocijo near the main plaza in Cusco.Sheep graze along a steep hillside outside Tambomachay.Walking up toward Tambomachay.Water fountain at Tambomachay.Students visit with our guide before exploring Tambomachay.Duality fountains at Tambomachay.Cows make their way slowly above the fountains at Tambomachay.A rock that may have been used for sacrifices.Christian, Joanna, Ammon and Micah hiked up into the hills as soon as they were given a chance.Christian, Joanna and Ammon stand above the water fountains.Lupine flowers are commonly seen around Cusco this time of year.Ammon and Jo make their way down the hill back to the bus.The Tambomachay River.This bark of this tree, native to Peru, has often been used for paper by locals.Moving on to Puka Pukara, which is lush and green this time of year.Maria at Puka Pukara.A double door jamb at Puka Pukara, signifies an important entrance, or a sacred place.A Puka Pukara view.Limestone rocks at Puka Pukara.Maria takes in the view at Puka Pukara, which also served as a lookout.A shepherd with his sheep below Puka Pukara.Elizabeth and Jo pose at Puka Pakara.Another lovely view from Puka Pukara.Amadeo explains the cave at Q’enqoA view through the big rocks at Q’enqo.Outside the cave at Q’enqo.Walking into the cave at Q’enqo.Joanna poses above Cusco at the Q’enqo site.Courtney, Liz and Jo above Cusco city.Micah stands overlooking Cusco city.Cusco city, from a distance.Students arrive at Saqsayhuaman.Amadeo shows us the proper sliding technique at the sliding rocks.Ammon is the first to give it a try.Next comes Christian.Micah takes his turn sliding at Saqsayhuaman.Here comes Maria sliding down the rock!Ike slides next……and then Lea.Joanna slides down the rocks at Saqsayhuaman.Willy takes a turn, too!Wait, is that Courtney up there?Yes, here comes Courtney.And last but not least is Elizabeth.There she goes!A view from Saqsayhuaman with the Cristo Blanco statue in the distance.Amadeo shows us a smaller slide.Ammon demonstrates flawless technique.Another view from Saqsayhuaman.Rock at Saqsayhuaman.A long view of the limestone stonework at Saqsayhuaman.A group photo at Saqsayhuaman.Courtney stands by the big carved boulder at Saqsayhuama, which weighs about 70 tons.Christian and Ammon by the biggest carved boulder at Saqsayhuaman (which weighs approximately 70 tons).Elizabeth poses in a doorway at Saqsayhuaman.Micah poses in a doorway at Saqsayhuaman.Courtney poses in a doorway at Saqsayhuaman.Ike poses in a doorway at Saqsayhuaman.Ammon gives Maria a backrub while waiting for our presenters.Ammon convinces Duane that a backrub is a good idea.Americo (Amaru) Mejia Suñiga can play several instruments at once.Americo (Amaru) Mejia Suñiga and his fellow musician.Playing the charango.Our attempt at a local dance.Elizabeth tries out a pan flute with one of musicians who performed for us during a workshop in Cusco.A group photo with the musicians before leaving to meet our host families.Christian and Micah with their host dad (Pastor Celestino) in Huacarpay.Ike and Ammon with their host family in Huacarpay.Lea with her two young hosts in Lucre.Courtney and Maria with their Lucre host mom.Elizabeth and Joanna with their host dad in Lucre.
