By Karen and Duane Sherer Stoltzfus
Peru SST Co-Directors, 2014-2015
View from the bus along the highway north of Lima.
To get to Caral, the oldest city in the Americas, you just drive straight north along the coast until you see a road sign for Caral. Head inland for about 12 miles and you’re there. If only the execution were as simple as the directions!
We left Lima at 6:15 a.m. to beat the rush-hour crowd. Before long, we had plenty of company on the road. And no matter what, it’s a long drive to Caral, about 120 miles. Fortunately, there were some gorgeous scenes along the way, including the rocky Pacific coastline to our left and sand dunes to our right that angled upward at nearly 45 degrees.
Josh, Phil and Hayley walk up a sandy hill from the Supe valley toward the Sacred City of Caral.
Rain almost never falls along the coast, but irrigation systems have created productive green bands. Near Caral we saw fields of sugar cane, corn, grapes, maracuyá. We pulled in to the parking lot at about 10:45 a.m. Subtracting time for our bathroom stop, that was an impressive four hours on the road.
We had reached one of the most celebrated archaeological sites in the world, Caral, said to be the oldest city in the Americas. Caral flourished for more than five centuries, beginning around 2600 B.C.
For all of its archaeological allure — we watched a BBC documentary earlier in the week, which described a civilization as old as the pyramids of Egypt, and where the absence of weapons and the presence of pyramids and canals suggests a highly structured society devoted to peace — Caral is a work in progress, reached by dirt roads, kept company by humble neighbors.
James rests on a rock near two of the Caral pyramids.
The tourist route to Machu Picchu is ever more finished and comfortable (beginning with the plaza in Cusco, where you can order a Starbucks latte). Caral seems more ready for archaeologists in jeans than tourists just off the plane. We parked the bus a half hour away from the ruins because to park on site would have required driving the bus through a large stream, and our driver was not about to go that route.
A young man named Roosevelt, who is from the nearby town, served as our tour guide. He told us that the excavation of Caral, which began in 1994, has uncovered 9 pyramids, several temples and 32 homes. He said that about 3,000 people once lived here.
The pyramids were made of stone and a mud sealant from a nearby river. The largest pyramid is about 91 feet high, with a base that covers an area the size of four football fields. At a place known as the Amphitheater Temple we heard that 32 flutes (made from condor and pelican bones) and 37 cornetts (made of deer and llama bones) had been found, signs of a people who prized music and pleasure.
A group photo in front of Caral’s main pyramid.
Eventually, around 2100 BCE, Caral was abandoned – possibly because of drought. Its inhabitants apparently moved on to more fertile areas of country and perhaps founded other civilizations as they went.
We left early afternoon, stopping in the town of Chancay along the way for a late lunch or early supper of Peruvian Chinese food, known as chifa (the menu restaurant where we hoped to eat was already closed for the day). We arrived back at Buen Pastor around 9:30 p.m. The drive is part of the admission price for visiting this site on the World Heritage List of the United Nations.
A view from the bus along the highway, driving north from Lima.The rugged coast line is fogged in this morning.Winding our way along the Pacific Ocean north of Lima.Turning inland, we are suddenly surrounded by fields of green.These viney plants appear to be maracuya, or passion fruit.We pass local people working in the fields.A view from the bus along the road to Caral.After 4 hours in the bus……the students are ready to explore!Crossing the bridge over the Supe River which, during the fall, is at a low point. Josh, Phil and Hayley walk up a sandy hill from the Supe Valley toward the Sacred City of Caral.Claire, Anna, Irene and David make their way up the hill from the valley.Morgan, James and Becca walk up the hill to Caral.Michael took charge of the chifles (plantain chips) for hungry hikers.Our first view of the pyramids of Caral.Our guide introduces us to Caral.Roosevelt, our guide, is from a nearby town. Local people have been helping with the excavation and have been trained as guides.At first the area just looks like a desert, with many hills.Kourtney, Josh, Irene, Hayley, Claire, James, and Becca…One of many helpful signs placed throughout the walking tour.A view of the amphitheater.Part of the amphitheater and storage units.Winding our way through the city……stopping to hear from our guide.A map of the city helps us to envision how things might have looked.Sign for the Major (Mayor) Pyramid.A group photo in front of Caral’s main pyramid.There must always be at least 2 in case somebody blinks!Overlooking the valley and river, excavation is going on at a pyramid in this area.The city is built on a hill overlooking the river valley.The ruins in the center of this photo are from a later civilization.The sun is out at mid-day and it feels a lot like summer!A sign for the Minor (Menor) Pyramid.Stairway to the Pyramid “Menor.””Taking in the huanca, which means “standing stone.” The huanca stands 2.15 meters in height, directly due north of the Huanca pyramid. It is considered to be related to the astronomical and ceremonial aspects of life in Caral. It is found across from the main staircase of the Pyramid of the Huanca. Archaeologists believe that this monolith was used for astronomical and ceremonial purposes.Zach, David and Michael pose behind the huanca stone.Depending on your viewpoint…(some say the huanca looks like a sea lion).Anna, the photographer.View of the huanca stone from the Huanca Pyramid.La Galeria Pyramid staircase.A sign for La Galeria pyramid.Layers of rock…A side view of the Huanca Pyramid.A sign for La Huanca pyramid.Phil and IreneJames rests on a rock near two of the Caral pyramids.A view of the airway that fans the flames of the fire in the residencial area.Residencial area.A description of the residencial area.Taking in the residencial area.Kate and AsiaExcavation of the fuego sagrado (sacred fire).A sign for the Fuego Sagrado or Sacred Fire.ZachOur guide thanks us for coming…Caral poster at the entrance to the site.Peter, Josh and Anna couldn’t resist climbing the sand dune outside the sacred city of Caral.PeterJoshAnnaJosh and Anna.They were soon joined by Phil.Phil……posing for a commercial.Anna, Josh, Peter and Phil on top of a sand dune at Caral.You’d never know were were in a desert!Nothing like spending your birthday at Caral to make you feel young…Feliz dia,Tito!A last look at the pyramids.Leaving Caral on foot.It’s good to see green again.We pass farmers working in their fields… …before crossing the river to our bus.The “flavicarpa” variety of maracuya (passion fruit) growing in the valley. We purchased some to take home for juice: 1 sol or about 32 cents per kilo!
