We drove 2 hours north from central Lima …. and were still not at the outskirts of this sprawling city. This capital now has almost 10 million people (Chicago is 8.3 million), but 50 years ago had less than 2 million. Rural poverty and, in the 1980s and 90s, a brutal conflict brought millions to the capital, causing rapid population growth that urban planning didn’t come close to managing. Vast areas were populated by illegal land seizures, and only years later did basic utilities like water and electricity arrive. Much of this growth occurred on the desert hills surrounding Lima, where shacks are built after carving into the steep inclines of rock and dirt.
It was to one such district of Lima, Puente Piedra, that we went to on Friday. It is older than many shantytowns, having been settled long enough ago that today it has water and electricity. We were welcomed by an Anglican priest, Padre Benjamin, who gave us the opportunity to do some earthmoving so that the parish church can expand. We discovered a small part of what it takes to carve away at the hill in order to erect a building. After lunch Padre Benjamin took us to meet Uvaldo, one of the first residents in the area, who farmed the flat land below the parish church and would tell us the local history. He still has a small “chacra” (field) that he farms.