Touring Downtown Lima, From Cathedral Crypts to a Hilltop Lookout
January 21, 2015
Our tour of downtown Lima began in an early colonial monastery, Convento de San Francisco, known for its religious art above ground and its history below ground.
Convento y Iglesia de San Francisco in central Lima.
We admired the courtyard, the wood carvings, and the paintings, including “The Last Supper,” by Diego de la Puente, in which a cuy, or guinea pig, is shown on a serving platter. Earlier in the week, one author had told us to be on the lookout for “syncretism,” or ways in which Peruvians blended indigenous beliefs and customs with Catholic practices brought by the Spaniards.
But what really got our attention were the bone-filled crypts, with skulls and femurs arranged in concentric circles. The monastery served as a public burial place until 1808. As we moved single file through narrow passageways, we read scriptural reminders posted on the walls, including John 11:25-26, in which Jesus proclaims,“I am the resurrection and the life . . . whoever lives by believing in me will never die.”
Next we walked to the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, which, like the Government Palace, is situated directly on the main square, or Plaza de Armas. Our tour guide, Diana, paused first in the chapel that holds the remains of Francisco Pizzaro, the Spanish conquistador who overthrew the Incan empire. We also saw vestments of Pope John Paul II; Lima is said to be one of only three cities where his vestments can be seen. Diana invited us to attend Mass on Sundays at 11 with the archbishop of Lima, Cardinal Juan Luis Cipriani. We also paused by a chapel devoted to Santa Rosa de Lima (1586-1617), St. Martin de Porres (1579-1639) and three other Peruvian saints.
Maria and Courtney pose in front of the Government Palace (Palacio de Gobierno) during the changing of the guard.
As we left the cathedral, shortly after noon, we could hear a military band setting the marching rhythm for the changing of the guard at the Government Palace, or the Palacio de Gobierno, which serves as the home of Peru’s president, Ollanta Humala. The changing of the guard is a formal affair. Two lines of guards, wearing white jackets and red pants, emerged from the palace, high-stepping their way toward the front gates. While we watched, we heard the band play a movement from “Carmina Burana.”
Lea and Joanna enjoying their first menú lunch at La Merced in central Lima.
Then it was time for lunch at La Merced, a popular restaurant housed in what were once offices for the adjacent La Merced Church where, reportedly, the first Mass was said in Lima. We took sanctuary in the back room, sitting under a beautifully carved baroque mahogany ceiling. Students ordered their menú meal, which features multiple options for a first course, la entrada, and a second course, the main plate, el segundo.
After lunch, we continued our walk along Jirón de la Unión, a pedestrian street that was once one of Lima’s most important boulevards. If you look closely, you can still see many impressive examples of neoclassical and Art Deco architecture, though many of Lima’s older buildings are in need of some tender loving care.
The perfect marble bench for a group of nine in Plaza San Martin.
We arrived at Plaza San Martin, Lima’s second most important city square, with plenty of time to relax and look around. The plaza, inaugurated in July of 1921 to celebrate Peru’s 100th anniversary of independence, is dedicated to General José de San Martin, a key leader for the struggle of independence in South America. The statue in the plaza’s center was designed by Spanish sculptor Mariano Benlliure to show San Martin during his voyage across the Andes. More importantly, people enjoy pointing out that the woman at the base of the monument, who represents liberty, was designed with a llama on her head instead of a crown of flames (llamas).
After admiring the plaza, we wandered into the Gran Hotel Bolivar, a historic hotel located on the plaza, built in 1924 as the first large, modern hotel in Lima. It hosted many famous guests during its heyday, including Hollywood stars like Clark Gable, John Wayne, and Ava Gardner.
Celia takes a selfie with the students near the cross at Cerro San Cristóbal.
We closed our tour with a visit to Cerro San Cristóbal, the highest hilltop to the northeast of central Lima. Our bus, reaching down deep in the lowest gears, climbed the narrow, twisting streets to reach the top of the hill, which offers arguably the best views of this sprawling city, including sections of the coastline. Just before leaving, the students gathered at the foot of the cross, a Lima landmark.
Photographs and editing by Karen Stoltzfus
Celia talks with students outside the San Francisco Church and Monastery.The San Francisco Church.A mosaic in a chapel in the Lima Cathedral showing Pizarro’s conquest of Peru.Lima’s main cathedral has a central nave with two side aisles and 13 chapels.In the Lima Cathedral near the main (gold-plated) altar and the carved wooden choir stalls.Celia sitting on a bench in Lima’s main cathedral.One of many paintings of Santa Rosa of Lima, the patron saint of Peru, and the first person born in the Western Hemisphere to be canonized by the Roman Catholic Church.One of the many impressive wood carvings in Lima’s cathedral.The remains of some of Lima’s youngest residents were buried in the cathedral many years ago.Skulls in the crypt of the Lima Cathedral.The vaulted ceiling is made of wood to allow the building more flexibility during earthquakes. A chapel in the Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to Santa Rosa de Lima, San Martin de Porres, and two other Peruvian saints.Maria, Elizabeth, Lea and Ike listen to our guide in the Lima Cathedral.Joanna and Ammon in Lima’s main cathedral.A nacimiento, or manger scene, in the Lima Cathedral, in celebration of the Christmas season.Students gather on the steps of the cathedral before heading over to watch the changing of the guard.The City hires workers to keep Lima’s Plaza Mayor extremely clean.The students gather in front of the Government Palace for the changing of the guard. Maria and Courtney pose in front of the Government Palace during the changing of the guard.Wreaths displayed along the gate in front of the palace are decorated with fabric representing the different provinces in Peru.Many Peruvians gather to watch the changing of the guard, alongside tourists.Students watching the changing of the guard in Lima’s central plaza.The Peruvian flag flies over the Government Palace, where Peru’s president lives.Courtney poses in front of the fountain in Lima’s main plaza.A view of the Government Palace behind the fountain in Lima’s central plaza.Walking from the Plaza Mayor toward Jirón de la Unión, a pedestrian street in Lima’s historic center.Jirón de la Unión. Many of the streets in Lima have several names.One of many interesting older buildings along Jirón de la Unión in central Lima.Walking along the Jirón de la Unión on our way to lunch.The La Merced church along Jirón de la Unión in central Lima, connected to the restaurant where we ate our lunch.Christian and Duane deciding what to have for lunch at La Merced.Micah and Courtney studying the menu.Some of the options for the day’s most reasonably priced menu.Lea and Joanna enjoying their first menu lunch in Lima.Maria and Ike eating lunch at La Merced.Ammon and Elizabeth enjoying their lunch at La Merced.Monument dedicated to Peru’s liberator, Jose San Martin, on the plaza.A woman, representing liberty, carries a llama on her head instead of a crown of flames.Talking with Celia in front of the historic Hotel Bolivar along Plaza San Martin in central Lima.As a whistle blows, the students discover they aren’t supposed to sit on the grass!The perfect marble bench for a group of nine in Plaza San Martin.Maria at Plaza San Martin in central Lima.Elizabeth and Christian at Plaza San Martin in central Lima.Ike at Plaza San Martin in central Lima.The stained glass dome over the lobby of the historic Hotel Bolivar, facing Plaza San Martin.Entering the District of Rimac (near central Lima). The ornamental colonnade of the Paseo de Aguas.The cross is in view as we begin our climb up the hill.A fruit stand in the Rimac neighborhood.Many crosses mark our trip up the hill.The view from our bus as we climb up to Cerro San Cristóbal.View of central Lima from Cerro San Cristóbal.The cross, built in 1928, and museum at Cerro San Cristóbal.Maria takes a look over the edge. Better to make the trip down by bus!A lovely plant adds a touch of color to the view.Elizabeth and Lea pose at Cerro San Cristóbal.Christian stands on the wall that overlooks the city of Lima.Ammon and Elizabeth at Cerro San Cristóbal, with Lima’s bullring in the background.Micah at Cerro San Cristóbal.Courtney and Ike pose while enjoying the view of Lima.Students pose at the foot of the cross at Cerro San Cristóbal.Celia takes a selfie with the students near the cross at Cerro San Cristóbal.A vendor sells snacks at Cerro San Cristóbal.Many visitors make pilgrimages up the hill and light candles or leave flowers under the cross.The students visit outside the bus before heading back to meet their families.Maria and Micah share hand sanitizer on the bus before heading back to El Buen Pastor.A final view of the cross as we head down the hill.
