Families dropped the students off, using the bus, for class and will pick them to remind them exactly how to get to and from home. By the end of the term they will be experts in how to get around the city. They'll know the best deals and the best eats and treats.

Photos courtesy of Emily, Celia, and Marissa

Wednesday the students arrived to Tambo with 7lbs of potatoes, tomatoes, cilantro, onions, garlic, limes, avocados and various tropical fruits.

One group made a tropical fruit platter, another guacamole, another salsa. The last one that was also the most laborious but the ultimate cultural experience was the 6 or 7 varieties of potatoes that were used to make various varieties of french fries. We had purple, pink, white, yellow and sweet potato varieties.

After enjoying these snacks we began our weekly ritual of Tambo. During this time we evaluate the week, are tested over what has been learned, share new things learned and process together. It is a time for renewal. As leaders we enjoy this time the most, as we watch students learn and grow.

Photos courtesy of Sonia, Marissa, and Ross

photo courtesy of Marissa

One of the most interesting parts of the 5 point, 113 canon guarded fort, is the King's Tower, which holds a dungeon used to guard prisoners of war. Particularly for the Independence war they would hold prisoners in a tunnel that was standing room only. They would hold them there until death. Bread and water was served from one window in the middle of the tunnel, the food and water never reached the extremities of the line. Scalding water and lye were used to calm the stench of death and defecation. Bodies were passed overhead towards the one door. Bodies of prisoners were burned and the remains are now stored in a small box at the closed entrance to tunnel that goes from the fort out to the ocean.

One most unusual and unexpected incident was the discovery of a new stutue, that of a pirate. The guide showed us the "wax" figure. We thought it looked mighty real and when we got close he jumped out at us. Surprised us for sure! He mentioned how the pirates were the original threat to the Fort and how the Fort was designed as a maze of traps. He also wanted to make us all pirates with only the cost of two silver coins for his patch. He was insistent on pirate poses. Photos courtesy of Emily and Marissa

Other students have visited the National Museum, the Larco Museum and the Inquisition museum. Pictures courtesy of Emily

Gabriel and his colleague explained how the economy and capitalism is failing a large sector of the World's population and their plan to get this population involved in the system instead of barred by institutions and systems that have a greater cost than benefit, making it more feasible to work outside the system or "extralegally" in their obtainment of land through invasions and settlements, the expansion of houses not up to building codes, working without permits, not paying fair wages and salaries. This organization was started by Peruvian Hernando de Soto and has worked in many countries around the world; studying the situation on the ground and making a diagnostic.

Shortly thereafter, we arrived to Victor Delfin's house, private studio and workshop. Victor Delfin is an artist/artisan recognized for breaking with traditional schools of art. He never studied in Paris but has made many statements about life through his work, through his mission, and through his life.

After a brief tour of the house he owns and all that he has built on his property overlooking the Pacific Ocean, we sat down with Victor Delfin, still very spry in his 80 plus years of life.

He encouraged the students to allow for creativity in our lives. We were inspired by his art. He pushes the margins of social acceptance in his art, as well as history, political satire and irony as well as more progressive themes.

By time we arrived it was lunchtime and we went to Mamaine's for some traditional food from the region.

By that time it had warmed up considerably, approaching 90 degrees we looked for some escape in an artisan market of straw crafts and fruits for sale. We enjoyed chocotejas de pecanas, a chocolate covered carmel and pecan sweet, as well as the smell of fresh grapes; the region's reputation is largely built on its production of fruits and incredibly soft Pima cotton.

From there we visited El Carmen, still littered with USAID tents, the main cathedral is still under repair. Rubble is still seen in the streets a year and a half later. Just around the corner from the main square, we arrived to the Balumbrosio's home. This family is renown in Chincha as well as Peru, and even internationally for its Afro-peruvian rhythms. We watched drumming on a cajon, a box drum, and tap dancing as well as other regional dances. At the end we tried our hand at the Alcatraz, where a handkerchief is tied behind you at your waist and your partner tries to light it with a candle. You do your best to put out the flame or keep from getting your handkerchief lit on fire. The students wiggled enough, managing to not get their handkerchief to smolder.

All of the cars looked freshly waxed, dusted, and glinted in the sun. Men and women in freshly pressed, pastel colored business-casual dress sipped Inca Cola behind the crystal clear glass of air-conditioned restaurants with 15 soles menus (which are all inclusive lunch specials that typically cost 5 or 6 soles). Streets and sidewalks were pristine, without even a chewing gum package to be found. After passing a spa/hotel with four black chauffeured Mercedes, windows fully tinted, parked in front, the sight of a traffic circle struck me, dominating the interchange with a fountain that sent a shaft of water twenty feet into the air. It seemed out of place in this city where it never rains.

Beyond the traffic circle, colorful, unique condos and chalets lined the streets. It was there that I discovered something astounding: silence. I hadn’t experienced this in Lima since my arrival three weeks ago. The lack of noise was largely due to the lack of public transportation that is so abundant in most districts of Lima. No noisy diesel "micros" with their cobradores shouting, calling people to "get on, get on!" their bus, in castellano, no sputtering moto-taxis, no dogs barking. Just a few birds chirping and muted sedans rolling by.

I took a relaxing stroll down a broad, paved walking path, which was lined with ancient olive trees and ponds. There were ducks, and more fountains, and more groves of trees. Short, dark, indigenous women pushed elderly white women along in their wheelchairs at a leisurely pace. Other indigenous women pushed baby carriages or walked fluffy white dogs. I partly see where indigenous people get the perception that white people are fragile.

By the end of my walk, I was stunned by the stark contrast between the wealth of San Isidro and my neighborhood in San Juan, which is more middle class. On my way back to Arequipa Avenue, slightly-fenced houses slowly faded into the more heavily fortified residences, with high walls topped with shards of glass. Diesel-soot-encrusted buildings and the mere presence of leaves on the street, signaled I had made it back to the busy avenue of Arequipa, where I flagged down a micro to take me to another world.

photos courtesy of Daniel.

On Thursday we put together "gift baskets" for families with whom small groups of students will be visiting in their home in Villa El Salvador.

Friday we left early for Pachacamac and Villa El Salvador. Pachacamac, the largest archeological site in Lima is right next to the dusty refugee settlements. From Pachacamac we could see the Valley of Lurin, known for its famous Peruvian Paso horses (a breed of horses known for their smooth ride) and lush fields of strawberrie, a green valley next to the sand dunes of Villa El Salvador. Villa Salvador stretches as far as the eye can see, small one story huts made of reed mats, corrugated tin, billboard scraps, whatever can be found and made into four walls and a roof. Quite a striking contrast.

Our guide at Pachacamac told us that originally when their was a surge of internal refugees fleeing from the conflict in the highlands you had to have a permit or a passport of sorts to enter the city of Lima in an effort to control who and how many people flee to the city.

We started exploring Villa El Salvador by visiting its commercial and industrial areas. Because of cheap skilled labor Villa Salvador is Lima's manufacturing center. Furniture, wheel barrows, clothing, shoes, handbags are all made in Villa El Salvador. Our guide Katy, shared her story of growing up under the reign of terror when hooded men would walk the streets at night after curfew, chanting and singing, practicing shots on the hills and lighting up the hammer and scythe as symbols of the Sendero Luminoso, a terrorist group that started in the highlands at a University.

Villa El Salvador started as a community of refugees, 37 years later they continue to work as a community offering lunch, the main meal here, to the whole community, with the help of government subsidies. We had the privilege of seeing community cooperation in action as we also ate our lunch at the soup kitchen.

From there we visited the grave of an activist woman that helped to start programs like soup kitchens providing social support for those fleeing. This Afro-Peruvian woman was strong and courageous in the face of the Sendero Luminoso factions she continued to work, despite their threats. Her last day of life was spent working at a fundraiser, selling roasted chicken meals when the Sendero Luminoso found her, tied her to a chair, wrapped her in bombs and exploded her body. We visited her grave, along our way we saw the community project of raising dairy cows to provide milk for the community kitchens. We passed through some new settlements, settlements that are beginning to invade even the cemetery. The community continues to grow daily.

From our tour of Villa El Salvador we ended at a church where the families were to meet us. Since we were early and the day was exhausting, students napped on the church benches. Soon enough families started arriving and and groups of three went to the small one story homes of families, some having lived there as long as 30 years. Some families have water, some don't. Some families buy their water from someone who has tanks that get filled by the weekly water tanks. They fill their buckets or bring the water-hose that string the two blocks or so, to their home and return the hose when they are done. Some of the families have electricity, some don't. Some of the families do sewing in their back patio for the factories that do the finishing. Much of what is made in Villa El Salvador is exported to countries like the U.S.

Students were able to peek into the lives of those that inhabit Villa El Salvador, now a recognized district of Lima.

That evening we had a Despedida, farewell presentation for the families. We enjoyed reflections on food, the Peruvian national anthem, thoughtful lyrics to adjusting to Peruvian life and los Chicos del Calle de Atras or the Backstreet Boys. Even though an unusual garua, sprinkling rain, fell on our someone open air evening, we didn't let that hinder our festive evening of snacks and presentations.

Photos courtesy of Daniel

I try to speak Open la boca And let the castellano flow forth pero no recuerdo las palabras

I stammer and strain my memory trying to recall those distant classes with Don Rafael as mi hermano interjects English words trying to help

Mi mama esta charlando muy rápido I smile and nod pero siento como que no entiendo nada she asks me a question it takes three tries for me to understand

Last night it was so easy we spoke about our families una hora o mas I understood so well felt like my ears were finally tuning in but words evade me now it is all lost to me a murmer over traffic

Me siento como un niñito or maybe a fool for thinking "puedo hablar en castellano" is this what Babel felt like as their words flowed past like flood waters when YHWH scattered humankind sobre toda la tierra

Yet perhaps we can rebuild our shattered tounges open our ears esperando un nuevo dia de Pentecostés

Comida Peruana

Me dijeron la comida peruana es rica es cierto, claro jugo de caña ¡que dulce! como miel de los cielos papa a la huancaína con sus ricos sabores bendita con queso y huevos duros mango jugoso, colorido, y maduro el rey de las frutas

Me dijeron la comida peruana es sencilla papas blancas, negras, y amarillas pollo frito, asado, o en sopa arroz, siempre blanco estas son las tres hermanas del Peru están en cada mesa

Me dijeron la comida peruana es extraña frutas desconcidas, cada parte del pollo mondongo, el estómago de la vaca blanco, arrugado, con una textura como chicle tuna, una fruta llena con semillas como cascajos en la boca ají, un salsa picante y fuerte aventuras y peligros, en el mismo plato

Rica, sencilla, y extraña estas ideas son ciertas pero falta algo más importante no importa que tipo de comida esta en la mesa pero con quién la estas compartiendo porque la cena implica compañerismo amigos y familia no solo los platos.

After resting a bit and eating lunch we started our tour of Cusco, literally translated, the navel, or the center of the Incan empire, Tahuantinsuyo, or the four corners. Our tour began in Sacsayhuaman, an Incan fortress used to impede the Spanish conquest that eventually ended in Spanish overthrow and has been mostly destroyed to be used in the construction of the churches in Cusco's main plaza. This construction is made out of stones that weigh up to 12 tons, some of which were brought from far away, carved to fit perfectly with each other.

It is the rainy season in the mountains, and Cusco's weather is unpredictable spurts of light to very heavy rains. Rains can be so heavy it makes rivers in the streets. We caught Cusco on one of its more rainy days and spent most of our time at Sacsayhuaman in the rain. It managed to pause long enough for a slick ride down the rock slide and a stumble through the minute and a half of sheer darkness in the cave under Sacsayhuaman's backside.

We also made a stop at Quenqo, the Quechua word for maze or crooked. In a cave underneath was performed sacrifices of the highest order. On our way to the "White Jesus" we got "choclo con queso." Choclo is a very plump white corn that is eaten off the cob with cheese. The corn isn't like American sweet-corn and the kernels are much larger and there is definitely no sweetness about it, just a nutty corn flavor. The cheese makes a bit of a squeaky sound in your mouth and tastes a tinge sour, but the corn and the cheese mix is a delightful and a very traditional snack to curb your hunger, besides the fact that it is very healthy.

The "White Jesus" as people call the large white stone statue on the hill was donated by the Catholic Palestinian refugees who were welcomed by local Cusquenos during the 40s.

From a beautiful panoramic view of Cusco, at the "white Jesus," we descended into Cusco to check out the Sun Temple, Qoriqancha, where we marveled again at the amazingly fitting Incan masonry that was taken over by the Dominican order during the conquest, from Incan Sun worshippers to Dominican Son worshippers.

We arrived to a very humid bright sunny Chulucanas we jumped off the bus to be met by a rush of mototaxi drivers who wanted to take us to where we were going. Mototaxis are motorcycle taxis or motorcycles that have a bench seat on the back. We didn't really need one since we were close to Carla's house, upon entering her neighborhood we noticed Carla seated in the park and surprised her with her mail. After she took us to her home and we visited with her family we went out to find Christa, who we saw through the window was reading on a chair in the living room. Any bit of breeze is welcome in Chulucanas so windows and doors are always open. We greeted her host-brother as we walked in. He was working on decorating a large pot. His family works on ceramics, firing them in the most traditional sense.

Both Christa and Carla work together and go to the same church together. Sunday they asked Christa to do a sunday school in a village where directions are indicated by "the big tree with lots of shade," which is the main square of the village.

Carla has been working on physical therapy with some of the children in the area. She helps them take steps and do stretching exercises.

Christa has been visiting those children who have stopped coming to the Rehabilitation Center, where they both work. Christa's latest task was teaching a girl to sweep. We were discussion the psychology of learning the purpose of actions. Christa said that the girl has the sweeping action down, but the girl hasn't quit grasped the objective of gathering particles together to be thrown away. Both girls are using their time not only at work and at church where they attend 3-4 times a week, but they also enjoy interacting in the community. Carla has become friends with a girl her age that she works with and Christa spends time in the park where she is surrounded by children if she's not studying. Christa has taught the children Slap-Jack and Go Fish.

Both seem to be in good spirits and good health. We brought them for the day to Piura where we enjoyed a relaxing lunch and a swim in the pool as well as a walk around town and a stop for ice cream before leaving them at the bus terminal to head back to Chulucanas.

The students have gotten to know Chimbote through the connects of Padre Juanito, an American priest who has lived there for over 30 years. We visit the students in the work locations tomorrow.

We started out the new day meeting up with the students at the Parrish met by Father Jack, the Priest that oversees the Parish. We distributed mail to very excited recipients and once the excitement died down the students took us on a tour of the parish.

We started with Reuben’s service assignment, accompanying at the Matt Talbot center for rehabilitation of addictions, primarily alcohol and drugs. Reuben has gotten to preach and has appreciated getting to know the program.

From there we returned to the Parish to pick up Marissa for lunch, downtown Chimbote. We searched for a while for a recommended restaurant and enjoyed ice cream afterwards. From there we started visiting families. We started with Chelsea’s family, Brian’s family and Josh’s family who related the joy he was to have a part of the family, as their “youngest” son.

From there we visited four more work assignments, the students have been filling school packs for children who are soon going back to school after the coastal summer. Kaila, has been teaching English at the Casa de la Juventud, the House of Youth. Marissa, works a block or so away at the Hospice and has gotten to know several of patients who live there. Marissa also goes with the Doctor and the Director on outpatient visitors. Marissa is a good person to accompany; she holds their hands as they get painful shots.

From there we visited the last 3 families, Marissa’s family, Kaila’s family and Reuben’s family. Reuben’s mother is a social worker at the parish and offered us soda and popcorn. Reuben’s mother, Udy Palacios, is delightful and looked a little like a fairy godmother.

After all those visits we were beat and retired early for the bus ride through the canyon to Huaraz, where we meet up with Ross, Emily, Daniel, Hannah R. and Audrey.